Color Correction

Earlier this month I received a call from one of my client's friends (May) needing me to fix her hair. May tried out a new stylist and wasn't happy with the results. She expressed to me she didn't want to go back to him to have her hair fixed because, she didn't want to hurt his feelings. After she explained what was wrong, I asked May to come in to see me so I could get a better understand the hair dilemma.

The picture of Jessica Alba May showed me.

The picture of Jessica Alba May showed me.

During my career I have fixed many a hair disasters, self inflicted and professionally done. Every experience is a new challenge of which I enjoy. Personally, I don't think anyone without a license should color their own hair. Most end in disaster and they come to me to fix it. In the matter of a professional job gone wrong it's usually miscommunication or their (the stylist) lack of education.

May came in to see me and upon first look her hair didn't look that there was much wrong. She explained to me she went to this stylist because she bought a deal online for a discounted service. That was her first mistake.  She didn't like that the hi-lights were not close to her scalp and when she wore her hair back it was obvious. This was a style she commonly wore. She wanted her hair shorter and showed me a picture of Jessica Alba. This same photo she showed the other stylist. I asked May if this was the way she wanted her color as well? She said yes, please fix it.

As I moved through May's hair I could see that, yes the hi-lights were far from the scalp and spotty. She told me he back combed her hair and applied the hi-lights. I'm sure this was a factor to why they were far away from her scalp and spotty. I found this to be a strange approach. As for her haircut, it was longer than what she had asked for. She wanted it to be a little longer than the above picture.

May's hair before the previous stylist cut and colored it.

May's hair before the previous stylist cut and colored it.

After the previous stylist colored her hair (these photos were taken by him)

After the previous stylist colored her hair (these photos were taken by him)

After looking through her hair is was clear to me the stylist lacked the proper communication stills and education. He was afraid to cut her hair too short, so he left it longer that she wanted. He also cut a heavy side bang and one disconnected layer on top. As for the color, he used a technique he wasn't skilled at. I have never heard of doing hi-lights this way but, I can tell you the results were not good. The color of the hi-light was nice but the placement had no rhyme or reason. He didn't ask May how she wore her hair on a day to day basis. If he had asked this he would have known placing hi-lights too far away from the scalp and not on her part would be obvious. When he finished her hair he flat ironed her hair making his mistakes not noticeable till she styled her hair herself.

This is what I did for May. I cut her hair to her shoulders and thinned out the top layer and bang; helping it blend in with the rest of the cut. For her color, I ombred the back of her hair to brighten it up with out feeling too bright. I explained to May is wasn't possible to fixed every spot with out making her hair lighter. She didn't want her hair lighter, so I fixed the spottiness as best I could. I also fixed the hi-lights that were too far away from her scalp. I finished with a base bump at the shampoo bowl to blend the hi-lights with her natural color.

May was very pleased with what I did with her hair. As you can see this looked closer to what she wanted but tailored to her. When a client shows me a picture of what they want to ask as many questions as I can to make sure we have the same vision. Even when a client comes to me and says "Do whatever you want" I still ask questions. I would also like to point out that looking for a deal on your hair isn't the best idea. If you want a quality job done you have to pay for it. In May's ordeal she ended double paying for her hair.

May's hair after I fixed the cut and color

May's hair after I fixed the cut and color

Side view of her corrected hair

Side view of her corrected hair

My advice to Hairstylists is to ask questions and know what your capable of doing. Don't put yourself in a situation where the client feels you don't know what you are doing. You know your skill level and if you aren't comfortable with a new technique, don't do it. Also have confidence in yourself and your skills. My hair mentor taught me this mantra " l control the hair. The hair does not control me"

Love your hair. Love yourself.

The Royal B

The SAG awards Best and Worst Hairstyles

The second awards show of the year and I was pleased to see some different styles. It seems that the ponytail and messy waves were the looks of the night. Everyone must have liked the idea Katie Holmes and Lorde had for the Golden Globes and expanded on it. Some were good and others bad. I had a hard time deciding which hairstyles I really liked and styles that were all wrong. This time I chose five hairstyles I loved and five that could have been better. Here are my top choices.....

My favorite of the night was Lupita Nyong'O. Her braided up do was beautiful. I love the intricate work of braids. Kudos to her talented stylist.

My second favorite was Keria Nightley. Soft waves and a messy half-up do were a perfect compliment to her dress. Well done.

My third favorite was Camilla Alves. This time her look worked for me. That dress was classic and her hair matched beautifully. She looked flawless. 

My forth favorite of the night was Resse Whitherspoon. What a perfect pony tail. I loved the volume and the curl added to the tail. 

My fifth favorite was Julie Louis-Dreyfus. She was completely sleek for the Golden Globes and now shows us her curls. I loved the simple full look of her curls without over powering the dress. 

And now to my least favorite looks.....

The look I cared for the least was Laverne Cox. Again here is a style that made her hair color look terrible. I love the idea of the braid in the front but her hair color is uneven. Not to mention the added volume to the braid made it look like a weird crown. There are two ways I would have fixed this; keep the braid as is and put all the hair up, it would then balance the heavy volume in the front or no volume in the braid and have it close to the scalp. 

My second least favorite was Gwendoline Christie.  If you are trying to pull off a classic at least do nice waves. If her hair was at least shiny it would have reflected in the light and gave the hair dimension. 

My third least favorite style was Rosamond Pike. I loved her sleek look at the Golden Globes but this was a miss. I'm all for a messy wavy look but, her hair just looks flat and frizzy. All this needed was a little more curl and it would have been great. It's like her stylist ran out of time. 

My fourth least favorite was Natalie Dormer. It wasn't that her hair was that bad it was just boring. First off she is wearing an asymmetrical dress and you put the hair on the side with the strap? I keep seeing this and wonder is the hairstylist seeing the dress before hand. I also felt her ends looks frizzy. 

photo 4 (2).JPG

My fifth least favorite style was Lorelei Linklater. First off when you look at her hair from the front she has these really long pieces hanging on either side of her face, it just looks weird. Then you see the side, she has this huge pony tail and fun colored hair. Why hide that color? It's so beautiful and shouldn't be hiding behind her back. 

The Oscars are next and the last of the big red carpet events. Lets see what the looks the stars have for us.

Love your hair. Love yourself.

The Royal B

 

copy write 2015

Hair Styles of the 72nd Annual Golden Globes

January 11th marked the 72nd year of the Golden Globes. The award season is under way and I'm sharing my favorite styles of the night. I get excited to see what the trends are on the red carpet. This year there were a lot of the same styles we have been seeing the past couple years. I was hoping for some variety and choosing favorites was hard. The favorite go to style of the night was a side part with curls. Really! This is the best the stylist could come up with? These women have amazing gowns on and all you could think of was a side part and curls. I narrowed down my hit and misses into four different catagories: curly, short, sleek, and up do's.

My favorite out of the curly looks was between Heidi Klum and Jessica Chastin. They both went for a classic look. The hair was shiny and perfectly waved. 

My least favorite curly hair looks were Julianne Moore and Kathrine Heigle. I love Julianne but felt her hair didn't show off the dress. I would have put her hair in a chignon. Kathrine's hair was just so boring. Her hair would have been great in a half up do. 

There aren't many options for short hair but I felt Kate Mara and Allison Manning did it best. I liked Kate's half up do. Allison's waves were beautiful and classic. 

My least favorite short hair looks were Taryn Manning and Zosia Mamet. Taryn putting her hair in a half up do with that color was all wrong. It would have been more flattering to put it all up. Your style should complement your haircolor not make it look like a mistake. Zosia's gray hair really wasn't working for me. Paired with her dress she just looked washed out. Her waves were poorly done. If done correctly this look would have worked. 

Sleek hair is a hard style to pull off. Julia Louis-Dreyfus and Rosamond Pike did it well. I loved Julia's middle part and hair behind her back. Rosamond's angled bob was perfectly shown off with her sleek look. 

The sleek hair misses for me were Katie Holmes and Jemima Kirke. Katie's extra long pony was not right and Lorde just pulled the look off better. It was like a long horse tail hanging there. Jemima's hair looked oily with her hair colored that way. Her hair being all platinum would have complemented this look better and a different dress. 

I wasn't really a huge fan of anyone's up do's. I decided Keira Nightly and Emily Blunt were my favorites. Keira's up do looked perfect with her dress. I really enjoyed her whole look. Emily's braid was the only one that worked. She didn't look like a sweddish milk maid. I liked the texture and subtle braid. 

The up do's I really didn't care for were Camila Alves and Kerry Washington. The up do Camila was sporting made her hair blonde highlights look like stiff noodles. A little less hair spray would have helped this look softer. Kerry's do was just boring and flat. She could have pulled off bigger hair and something more sculpted. 

My hope is that for The Screen Actors guild awards and The Oscars the hair is less boring. Don't be afraid to complement the beautiful dresses. Have fun with it, think outside the expected look. 

Love your hair. Love yourself.

The Royal B

Copy Write 2015

Day Two of My Week of Dirty Hair

The second day of my weekly hair routine is very simple. Watch the short video below and you will see how easy it is. One thing my clients always ask me for is wash and wear hair. Having your hair cut that works with the natural flow and texture of your hair will always look good. Having a good haircut helps the process of not washing work better. Not washing your hair saves water, time, shampoo, conditioner, and puts less stress on your hair. If you are someone who has trouble growing your hair not washing it can help. Healthy happy hair grows. Hair that is over washed dried out or abused by the over use of hot tools makes hair not want to grow. Be nice to your hair.

In this video I suggest you read my blog about not using rubber bands in your hair. Here is a link to the post http://theroyalbhair.blogspot.com/2013/08/thou-shalt-not-use-rubber-bands-on-your. 

Love your hair. Love yourself.

The Royal B

Copy Write 2014-2015

Day One of My Week of Dirty Hair

Welcome to my weekly hair routine. I wanted to share with you my weekly hair routine to inspire you to stop washing your hair everyday, it is possible. If you have read my blog post (Thou Shalt Not Wash Your Hair Everyday), I explain the importance of not washing. Everyone's hair and life style is different. We all have our hang ups about our hair and hygiene that may keep you from believing this is possible. I encourage you to try this. My hair is color treated, fine in texture, and wavy. My scalp also tends to be oily. It took a while for me to figure out what worked best for my hair.

The video below is my first day of My Week of Dirty Hair. In this video I show you my hair routine of the day and the products I use. The products I use are all by Bumble and Bumble. I use Tonic, Surf Spray, Grooming Creme, and Thickening Creme Contour. All of these products can be found on Bumble and Bumble's website http://www.bumbleandbumble.com or at a Bumble salon near you. Enjoy!

Copy Write 2014-2015

Does she.... Or doesn't she

"Does she... or doesn't she?"

It's the ever popular question originally asked by Clairol more than 50 years ago.

In 1956 Clairol made the first at home hair coloring kit introducing DIY hair coloring to the masses. Forty years later, women are still picking up their hair color at the grocery store. Now the question is, does she or doesn't she...color it at home?

Have you ever dyed your hair at home only to find that the result is nothing like the color on the box? This is because mixing hair color isn't like mixing finger paints. Similarly, applying hair color to your hair isn't like applying paint to a canvas. When coloring your hair, a stylist has to think about the chemical reaction your hair will create when the color is applied. Whether you have gray, virgin, colored, bleached, permed, or chemically straightened hair--all react differently. They each present their own challenge a boxed hair color box can't provide a custom solution too.

The art and skill it takes to mix a natural looking hair color is frequently over looked because of the DIY hair color market. Many people don't realize that store-bought hair color and hair color mixed at the salon are completely different. The chemicals in grocery store color are made to be safe for anyone to use. The results vary because there is no way to ensure the customization necessary to achieve the color on the box. Most of the time the color leaves the hair dry and it fades quickly. Conversely, a hairstylist chooses the product line they work with and are trained accordingly. Think of us like hair color chemists. We create a customized color that matches the color you're trying to achieve and will work on your own unique hair specifically.

The application of hair color is just as complicated as mixing color. Think about highlighted hair. When is the last time you have seen a natural looking at home highlight?Never. I have visions of spotted heads from at home cap bleaching now.Highlighting and low-lighting or weaving hair takes skill and understanding of each person's natural growth pattern. These are all things a hairstylist looks for and takes into consideration before coloring your hair.

The picture above is an example of a customized hair color done by me. My client could never create this kind of result at home with a highlighting kit and a pull through highlighting cap. I even prefer to have someone else color my hair for me. Further proof that we all know going to a professional is worth the money. My tip to you is to find a stylist and go in for a consultation before going straight for the box.

Love your hair. Love yourself.

The Royal B

Copy Write 2014-2015

How to break up with your hairstylist

Everyone has had to tell someone goodbye. Saying goodbye doesn't have to be bad. We change everyday and sometimes people just don't serve you anymore. Leaving your stylist has been aquated to leaving a lover. You are in a vulnerable state with your stylist. We control your look and to a degree how you feel about yourself. If you feel your stylist isn't right anymore, it's ok to move on. 

There are many reasons to why you are breaking up with your stylist. If the issue is with your hair, I would express your concern to your stylist. If she/ he still is not working for you, it's ok to move on. Sometimes you a have a personality conflict. You are having a conversation with your stylist and you two don't agree on something. This doesn't mean you need to hide and never come back. You see your stylist more than a family or a close friend sometimes. Being too afraid to say to your stylist you have a problem is silly. Would you not address your friend if you had an issue? Your stylist has invested the same amount of time into your relationship as you have, so be courteous.

As a stylist we wonder where did we go wrong? Did I offend you, did you not like your hair, can you not afford me anymore, etc. When we get no explanation, how are we to grow as a stylist/ person? People keep people in check. Your explanation is helpful to me as a stylist. A hair stylist is like an artist. If you are unhappy with our work it is personal to us. We need to know where we went wrong to better ourself as an artist. 

Stylist have to fire clients sometimes. We can't please everyone and some can be too demanding. We are not miracle workers. We work with what you have and create. You wouldn't tell a painter how to paint a mural would you? Talking to a stylist is like talking to an artist. Creating your individual look isn't easy and communication is key. We try as hard as we can to make you look good and feel happy. Be respectful with your words and remember we want you to look good. 

If your decide to break up here is how you should address it. First, always if you have a pre-exhisting appointment call and cancel. Standing up a stylist is like taking money out of their pocket. Time is money in our business. Second, talk to your stylist.  If you don't feel you can talk to him/her face to face send a note. Your stylist wants you to be happy if you found someone you like better, yay! We wish you the best. Third, know you made the right decision and feel good about it. 

I hope these insights help you make this hard transition easier. We all want to be happy and look our best. Ending things can be happy and exciting to try something new. 

Love your hair. Love yourself. 

The Royal B

Copy Write 2013-2015

The Ten Commandments of Haircare

 The Ten Commandments of Haircare 

 

   Thou shalt have a stylist 

   No persons shall conduct a chemical service on thy self

   Not lie to your stylist

   Remember to have your hair cut every three months

   Honor thy self with a deep conditioner 

   Thou shalt not use rubber bands 

   Thou shalt not cut thy own hair 

   Thou shalt not use a brush on wet hair

   Thou shalt not use hot tools excessively 

   Thou shalt it wash hair everyday

 

Think of these commandments like guidelines much like the "Ten Commandments". Create your own hair routine based on these guide lines and share your ideas. Everyone's hair is different and the more haircare ideas we share the happier hair will be (and you). On my first day of beauty school, I remember thinking everyone should go to beauty school just to learn how to properly groom themself. Treat your hair with respect and honor yourself by taking care of your hair. It's important to spend time pampering our selves. We need to get out of this idea that spending time on your beauty or fashion is viewed as trying too hard. Be nice give time for your self. You will feel good and that's all the matters. Happy hair happy people. 

 

The your hair. Love yourself. 

 

The Royal B

Copy Write 2013-2015

Thou shalt not wash hair everyday

"Love your hair. Love yourself."

-The Royal B 

It is best not to wash your hair everyday because, you strip your scalp of natural oils. Your hair and scalp prefer your own natural oils. Having the right environment on your scalp grows happy shiny hair. How you take care of yourself and what you eat shows by how your hair grows, feels, looks, etc.

I know some of you are thinking I could never not wash my hair everyday because its too oily, I sweat , blah blah blah. If your hair is too oily you need to get your scalp regulated. Stop washing it and see what your hair does. Brushing your hair is important when not washing your hair everyday, because it brings the oil down through your hair. Read  "Thou shalt not use a brush on wet hair" the 8th commandment of hair care about brushes. Your hair doesn't have to be cleansed everyday. If you workout wash your hair with conditioner instead of shampoo or simply just rinse it. The conditioner will clean your hair without removing your natural oils. This is why products like Wen work. I do believe that hair does need to be cleansed at least once a week depending on how oily your scalp is. 

Some of the suggestions I have made may to not apply for all hair types. Different lengths, textures, density and scalp condition have different needs. Also, as we grow older our bodies lose oil, we literally dry up. The hair of your twenties is not the same in your forties. Play with your hair. Try out some of these ideas and see what works. Have fun!

The Royal B 

Copy Write 2013-2015

Thou shalt not use hot tools excessively

“People always ask me how long it takes to do my hair.

 I don't know I'm never there!”

-Dolly Parton

Using hot tools incorrectly can ruin your hair and change its natural texture. I have seen so many heads of burnt and broken hair ever since the invention of flat irons. Curling irons, flat irons, and hair dryers don't give you proper instructions on how to use them. I don't blame you for not understanding how to use them correctly. 

Using a heat protectant is vital to use if you use hot tools regularly. Bumble and Bumble makes a great product called Does it all. This spray is used on dry hair and should be sprayed on the hair before use of hot tools. It is also great to spray at your roots to add lift and keep the style. This product will also help your curls stay better. Straight by Bumble and Bumble is another great option for very curly haired people. This product is a little heavier and shouldn't be used if you have fine hair. Apply to wet hair, blow dry, and flat iron if needed. Check out

bumbleandbumble.com

 for other amazing products.  

It is most important to use heat protectants if you use a flat iron. Some flat irons get too hot for hair to handle. If you are able to adjust the heat of the iron set it lower. Don't go over the same section too many times. Sectioning off your hair will help you get a straighter and better over all look. I encourage you to play and figure out the best routine that works for you and your hair.

Love your hair. Love yourself. 

The Royal B 

Copy Write 2013-2015

Thou shalt not cut thy own hair

"Hair style is the final tip-off whether or not a woman really knows herself."  

-Hubert de Givenchy

Everyone thinks they can cut their own hair, even me. Who hasn't had a bad cut from a mother, aunt, lover, etc., because they couldn't wait. The eighth commandment of haircare is 

Thou shalt not cut thy own hair 

Patience is something many don't apply to their hair. Waiting for your hair to grow out will take more patience than waiting to see a stylist. Having a haircut that works for your lifestyle is important. Discuss with your stylist how often you want to style your hair. Take in to consideration how much time you have to style everyday. Also, how often you can afford to get a haircut and product required to keep up the style you want. I offer my clients free bang trims to avoid you taking matters in your own hands. Ask your stylist about free bang trims maybe, you can work out a deal. 

Your hair doesn't have to be difficult to maintain or style. Knowing your hair and understanding how it works, will help you with styling. Most people don't understand how their hair works because they have been working against it so long. Let your hair air dry and see how it feels. Look at how your haircut hangs in a 360 mirror. Notice where you have cowlicks. Seeing your hair in its natural state and feeling it can help you problem solve for styling problems. If you are unsure what you are looking for next time you see your stylist, go in with air dried hair. They will explain and help you. 

Love your hair. Love yourself. 

The Royal B 

Copy Write 2013-2015

Thou shalt not use a brush on wet hair

"The beauty of a woman is not in the clothes she wears, the figure that she carries or the way she combs her hair."

-

Audrey Hepburn

The most common way hair is damaged is by improper brushing. The seventh commandment of haircare is 

Thou shalt not use a brush on wet hair.

Hair is fragile when wet, especially fine hair. Pulling a brush through tangly wet hair breaks it. The best way to detangle is with a comb. Brushing your hair isn't a thing of the past and keeping your hair detangled is important to the health of your hair. 

Using a product like Bumble and

Bumble's Tonic or Prep can help you detangle your hair without extensive use with the comb. Tonic is a great product for all hair types. It closes the hair shaft making it easier to comb. Prep does the same thing but is lighter and made for virgin hair(uncolored hair). Regular hair detanglers are  a light conditioner and can become heavy in the hair if you use too much. 

Brushing your hair is important to the health of your hair. Using a boar/ natural bristle brush helps move oil from your scalp to the ends. Also brushing the oil away from your scalp helps your hair from looking too oily in between washes. As I stated in "honor thy self with a deep conditioner" your natural hair oil is best for your hair. My favorite brushes are the Denman med 7 row brush and Bass natural bristle firm brush. The Denman brush is safe to use on wet hair to detangle. Regular brushes with a little tab at the end of the bristle are bad for your hair. They catch in a knot and pull the hair too much causing breakage.

Denman 7 row brush

Bass Firm Natural boar bristle brush

When detangling your hair start by spraying tonic or prep scalp to ends. Starting at the ends comb or use your Denman to detangle. If you have a spot that is hard to comb out, spray more tonic. Don't be afraid to use too much tonic, it won't make your hair oily. You can use tonic or prep on wet and dry hair. It is best to use your boar bristle brush when your hair is dry and detangled. Start at your scalp and brush to ends. Brushing your scalp helps stimulate hair growth and exfoliate. Go brush your hair and enjoy spending time with you.

Love your hair. Love yourself.

The Royal B

Copy Write 2013-2015

Thou shalt not use rubber bands on your hair

"How can I control my life when I can't control my hair?"

 ~Author Unknown

Ponytails and pig tails are great ways to get your hair out of your face but, it can be damaging. The Sixth commandment of haircare is 

Thou shalt not use rubber bands on your hair.

Check out The Pink Avenger

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http://www.etsy.com/shop/pinkavenger

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Everyone knows not to use "rubber bands" on their hair. What you don't realize is that even non rubber ones can damage your hair. 

I can always tell when someone wears a ponytail as a everyday look. What I see is breakage in a circular pattern starting where the band is placed in your hair. If you have fine texture hair it is best to not wear a ponytail for great lengths of time. Fine hair doesn't have the same integrity as corse hair.  Try and use Bobbie pins, claw clips, and headbands instead of hairbands. Braiding your hair is also a great way to keep hair away from your face. 

The less breakage you have in your hair the easier it is to style. There are so many different ways your can wear your hair up with out using a rubber band. Creating an up-do is a great option and can last days if kept up right. I encourage you to have fun with your hair and create new styles. 

Love your hair. Love yourself.

The Royal B

Copy Write 2013-2015

Honor thy self with a conditioning treatment

"The hair is the richest ornament of women."  

-Martin Luther

Everyone deserves a little pampering, especially your hair. The fifth commandment of haircare is Honor thy self with a conditioning treatment.

For healthy hair I recommend putting a conditioning treatment on once a month. If you tend to over style or have dry hair you may need put a treatment on twice a month. It is best to apply before a color service, never right after. Conditioning treatments can remove your color and make it look faded. If you have just colored your hair, wait at least a week or two weeks to not affect your color. If your hair is bleached or a high lift blonde has been used a treatment can be applied right away.

Hair is made of keratin which is a protein. Treatments with protein add strength and makes it stronger. Adding too much protein can dry your hair out and make it brittle. Be careful to not use too many products that have protein in them. They may at the time be great but in the long run dry your hair out.

Coconut, avocado, and olive oil are great for adding moisture to your hair. These are the only oils that can be absorbed into the hair shaft. Using oil is cheaper than buying treatments and can be very affective. Apply oil to hair/ scalp at night and wrap your head in a warm towel. Leave on over night or an hour, whatever you have time for. Caution you may need to wash your hair more than once after an oil treatment.

If your hair needs protein Bumble and Bumble has a conditioner called Deeeep. Pay attention to the directions and don't use it longer than the required time. Leaving it on longer may end up drying out your hair. I also like the masque by Bumble and Bumble's curly hair line. It adds protein and moisture to your hair. Try out different ones and see which conditioner works best for your hair.

Love your hair. Love yourself.

The Royal B

Copy Write 2013-2015